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Planting Guide Grapes   Types Of Grapes   We can grow three types of grapes in Western Colorado. American Grapes are extremely cold hardy. They tend to have a tougher skin and almost all are seeded. Examples of some American varieties are 'Concord', 'Fredonia', and 'Niagara',. Most of our seedless and wine varieties are European Grapes. European varieties are not quite as cold hardy and can be damaged by an especially cold winter. Examples of European varieties are 'Thompson Seedless', 'Black Monukka', 'Cabernet Sauvignon', 'Flame' and 'Zinfandel'. American Hybrids are crosses between the first two. They have better cold hardiness than European Grapes and have some of the desirable characteristics (like seedless fruit) of the Europeans. Examples of some American Hybrids are 'Canadice Red', 'Himrod', and 'Fantasy'.   Planting   Dig a hole twice as wide and only as deep as the rootball of the grape. Be sure to adjust the hole so that the top of the rootball is 1" to 2" above ground level. Next, remove the container. Plastic pots can be removed by turning the grape upside down and sliding it out of the pot. Place your grape in the hole and refill it with a blended mixture of 1/3 Sunshine Peat Moss or Soil Pep and 2/3 of your garden soil. Firm the backfill by tamping it gently. The use of Fertilome Root Stimulator at planting time will greatly reduce transplant shock and encourage your shrubs to resume their normal growing habits more quickly.     Feeding   Grapes need only moderate supplemental feeding. The application of too much nitrogen to the plant can result in fast, rank growth of the vine with little, if any, fruit production. A light application of Bookcliff Gardens Choice Vegetable Garden Fertilizer works well. Iron deficiencies are not uncommon in grape plants here. Use Fertilome Liquid Iron two to four times in the spring and summer.   Watering   It is impossible to give a watering schedule that will be right for everyone all of the time. Factors such as the soil type, how big the plant is, how fast the plant is growing, air temperature, humidity, wind and light intensity all will affect how often a particular plant will need watering.   The basic rule of thumb is to water deeply, but infrequently. Get the water down a minimum of 18" at each watering. his encourages the plant to develop a deep, drought tolerant root system. Then give the soil a chance to dry slightly between waterings. It is common for people to kill or unnecessarily stress their plants by watering too frequently. he roots of a plant require oxygen in order to function. If the soil is constantly waterlogged, there is not enough oxygen available to the root system and the roots suffocate and begin to die.   Knowing this, our recommendation is to water deeply by building a basin around grapes that are not watered by lawn sprinklers. It should be wide enough to accommodate the root system of the plant (generally out to the drip line of the plant) and high enough to hold three or four inches of water when full. Fill the basin full, let it soak in, and fill it a second time. Then don't water the plant again until the soil in the basin begins to dry. Don't just look at the soil surface, dig down 5" to 6" to see how dry the soil is. The soil should be showing some significant drying down at that depth. One little trick is to scoop up a handful of soil from that depth and squeeze it into a ball. If the ball holds its shape after you let go, the soil is still wet. If the ball falls apart, it's time to water. Using this method several times, you will be able to determine your own watering schedule.   Pruning   Grapes should be pruned each year to help control the size of the plant and to produce abundant, quality fruit. There are two ways to prune grapes: Spur Pruning and Cane Pruning. Spur Pruning is the easiest to do and therefore the preferred method. However, certain varieties will not bear any fruit if Spur Pruned, and must be Cane Pruned. Check with us at Bookcliff Gardens to see which type of pruning your grapes require.       First Growing Season: Leave the plant alone, it will grow a number of shoots.   First Dormant Season: Choose the best shoot and cut the others off. Head back the remaining shoot to three or four strong buds.   Second Growing Season: When new shoots reach about 12" long, select the most vigorous and pinch off the others at the trunk. Tie the remaining shoot to a support (stake, trellis post, arbor post). When the shoot reaches the branching point at the top of the arbor or trellis wire, pinch it to force branching. Let two strong branches grow. Pinch any others to 8"-10" long.   Second Dormant Season: Cut away all side shoots, leaving only the trunk and two major branches. Tie these to the trellis wire or arbor top.   Third Growing Season: Let the vine grow. Pinch off any sprouts on the trunk. After this, spur and cane pruning differ. Spur Pruning of Grapes   Third Dormant Season: Remove all shoots from the vertical trunk. Choose the strongest side shoots on the horizontal branches and cut them back to two buds. Remove weak entirely, spurs should be spaced 6" to 10" apart.   Annually: Every dormant season after this, each spur will have two shoots that produced fruit the previous summer. Cut off the weaker shoot. Cut the stronger shoot back to two or three buds. These buds will produce fruit bearing shoots next summer. Repeat each year. Always keep the trunk clear of growth.   Cane Pruning of Grapes   Third Dormant Season: Remove shoots from the trunk. Cut the horizontal branches back so that two long shoots remain on each. On a two wire trellis you can leave eight shoots per vine. Tie the strongest shoot to the trellis. Cut the other to two or three buds. The tied shoot (fruiting cane) will fruit the following summer. The clipped shoot (renewal spur) will produce growth to replace it the next winter, and fruit the year after.   Annually: Remove last year's fruiting cane. Select the best shoot for next year's fruiting cane and tie it to the trellis. Cut the next best cane to two or three buds to form the renewal spur.     Our Guarantee   Thanks for buying a plant from Bookcliff Gardens. Our goal is that you be successful with every plant you purchase from us. We'll try to give you as much information and instruction as it takes to make this happen. If you have any questions, please ask! We'll do our best to answer them. However, since this is not a perfect world, and in spite of the best of both of our efforts, plants sometimes die. If this happens within the first year after buying the plant from us, we will replace it; give you an equal amount of credit; or refund your money if you have your receipt. We limit our guarantee to replacing a plant only once, and the guarantee does not apply to annual bedding plants or house plants. If you're having a problem with a plant, come in and talk to us about it; we'll try to find out what happened so we won't lose another plant. It's in both of our interests that the plants you buy from us grow and thrive. We want you to be successful!             www.ake.blogfa.com                          www.ake.blogfa.com